Tuesday 17 June 2014

I Problemi di Lingua

So I am in sunny Ortona!  Where the cazzo is that I hear you say.  Well it's in Abruzzo on the coast near a city called Pescara.  Where the cazzo is Abruzzo?  East coast of Italy, directly across from Rome.  Got it?  Good.  It's a rather lovely town actually, on the sea with a population of around 20,000, so small but still has some things going on.  Abruzzo is also a spectacular region.  I live at the seaside but I'm less than an hour from snow topped mountains and skiing resorts.  It's almost a shame it's summer.

I will be honest, my first day was not fantastic.  I arrived at the beautiful office of Farnese Vini and spent the morning photocopying and filing.  I was then moved to Caldora, an office just outside the town in a bottling plant.  (I'm still not sure if I was exiled due to my poor photocopying skills or if that's where I was actually supposed to be!)  I walked in, smile on face as per usual to meet a group of Abruzzesi looking at me very oddly as if I were an alien.  No smiles.  Barely a greeting.  I felt like I was 10 years old.  They didn't actually give me anything to do, so left me sitting like a lemon apart from a little tour around the factory.  To make matters even worse, the staff at this office don't really speak Italian - they speak dialect.  And it's a hell of a strong one.  I think I could probably understand more Russian spoken by a child with a speech impediment.  To be honest, even when they speak Italian their accent is so strong that I really struggle to make it out.  So far so not good.

The second day wasn't much better.  I spent 8 hours stapling.  8.  Eight.  EIGHT!!!  My shoulder actively hurt from the repetition.  The week continued in this vein, I stapled/filed/sat around doing nothing.  I completely admit at this point to feeling completely helpless and worried.  I was not being paid to staple, the youngest person at the office apart from me was in his early forties and I was the only girl.  The advantage of this was that they started calling me Kate Moss.  Which is lovely, even if a little odd coming from middle-aged men with a naked girls calendar on the wall.  But we'll ignore that little treasure.

Luckily things soon started to look up, and I'm not just talking about the gravity defying nature of those models' boobs.  I managed to find an absurdly expensive but lovely apartment in the centre of Ortona,  owned by a fantastic old Italian lady called Lina.  The setup is fantastically stereotypical.  Lina lives on the second floor in the biggest apartment I have ever seen in my life.  She is a self-confessed housewife and spends her days looking after her flat and her lovely son Giuseppe and his family, who live on the fourth floor.  Her brother-in-law lives on the first floor, so the whole building is occupied by one big happy Italian family, with the addition of little me on the third floor.  I think they knew I was feeling a bit lonely and overwhelmed and have adopted me into their family, to the point of getting worried if they don't see me every couple of days.  Also if I need anything, they do everything possible to take care of me.  On Friday night I managed to break the electrics and the oven at the same time, classic Coleman.  Within 5 minutes, Lina had her friend's nephew over (who had only just got home after a long day at work....I did feel rather guilty) who fixed everything.  So despite breaking something on a Friday night, it was fixed straight away for free.  The advantages of tight communities/having a terrifying fabulous Italian matriarch on your side.

Luckly this week another "stagista" arrived at Caldora.  As I had done all the stapling that needed to be done and some that didn't there wasn't really a lot for Simona and I to do so I emailed the main office at Farnese who welcomed us with open arms.  So not only have I not stapled anything for at least three days, I also have a new friend who is Italian!  Simona is 22, studies in Turin and is lovely.  She has introduced me to her friends, who interestingly think I'm alright, and includes me as much as possible. I think I may have made some friends!  Yes, I'm very excited about this, but after the first week I had resigned myself to having no friends at all and a very lonely summer so it was nice to be proved wrong.  Work is treating us pretty well - on Friday there was a tasting at the office and there were plenty of almost full bottles left.  So we were told to take as many bottles as we could manage.  Score.  I think they definitely underestimated how strong I am when given alcohol as a motivation.  Typical Brit.  I was given a baptism of fire that night when we went to Pescara to "ballare".
The clubs in Pescara are insanely beautiful.  Most are open-air and on the beach - summer bliss!  In theory, they should be some of the best clubs ever, but alas the Southern Italians have fallen seriously short on one issue: the music.  I cannot describe how bad the music was.  It wasn't even bad in a cheesy fun way, it was just repetitive and mind-numbingly boring.  Well I suppose you can't have it all.  Amazingly I didn't actually humiliate myself that much and I didn't randomly go swimming. Success.

We got back just after 5 so I decided to go and watch the sunrise over the port.  Mad beauty.


Obviously I have been going to the beach.  Oh yeah, it's 30 degrees here.  Tragedy.  After getting spectacularly lost on my first visit and nearly ending up walking down a dual carriageway (thanks Google Maps!) I found a little path that goes through a mini jungle and ends up in an olive grove.

I think I've found my picnic spot.

Despite having made Italian friends and family, I didn't feel up to watching the England-Italy match with other Italians.  I am literally the only English person here.  So I watched it at home alone, which was just as well as I had temporarily forgotten how much I swear when watching sport.  Obviously this didn't reach Wales rugby levels of histrionics, but it wasn't that far off, particularly when England scored.  Robbed.  Robbed we were.  I was so glad I had stayed home, I just can't cope with all the smug Italian faces.  Effing Ballotelli.  We also seem to have lost our ability to kick a decent corner, and I'm not just talking about Rooney's shocker.  And don't get me started on the uselessness of Johnson (who by the way Italian girls think is the hottest player on the team....) The only saving grace was the Italian commentators' hilarious inability to distinguish between Welbeck, Sterling and Sturridge.

Anyway I apologise for the lack of pictures - I will make sure to take loads next weekend as the lovely Lucy is visiting me!  Very, very excited.  I've just got back from an hour and a half of zumba....absolutely dying so ciao for now!

Sunday 1 June 2014

Aurevoir ma chère France, ma Buongiorno Italia!

So it happened.  I left.  And it was horrendous.  Many tearful goodbyes were had and I thoroughly embarrassed myself as usual.  Fantastique.  The last couple of weeks were gorgeous though.  The weather was beautiful so I could be all voyeuristic in the park by spying on all the topless blokes doing yoga and the topless bloke walking on the tightrope.  There's no theme I promise.
I had a wonderful surprise visit from the lovely Verity in the last week.  We had a lovely time at Niolon which is just across the bay from Marseille.  It's such a beautiful spot which clearly needed some silly stunts.
The beautiful Verity:

And true to form and my word, on our last Friday night I did something rather silly that may or may not have involved swimming in the Rotonde, you know that massive fountain in the middle of the roundabout in Aix, at 5am.  Great idea, particularly when the police showed up.  (Interestingly instead of making a beeline for the dripping wet half naked girls they went to speak to the weird pervy men watching us)  Once again, video available on request, featuring commentary from the hilarious Jimmie Russell.  And so I finished the year as I started it, in a fountain for no real reason.  Typical.
Sadly I cannot describe how much I miss France.  I had such amazing friends there, as well as family, and even though Italy is lovely, I do want to go back to this bunch.


Sad times.

But onwards and upwards!  After a lovely few days at home where I got my puppy and pony fix it was time for Italia!  I will admit that I had a little wobble before coming.  I was missing France a lot and didn't feel I had the energy to move again, particularly to a country where I don't know anyone.  Luckily Mumma Coleman gave me a kick up the ass and I managed to haul my stupidly heavy suitcase to Florence.  It's rather beautiful in case you didn't know.
I have been living with a lovely Italian couple called Andrea and Fiamma and their two cats which is great fun.  Andrea and Fiamma are basically overgrown students so our lifestyles seem to fit quite well.  Every time I crawl out of bed hungover they are there telling me how proud they are of me while also being just as hungover as me.  We work well together.
Aside from writing a monster essay on Dante (apparently the physical and moral structure of the Divine Comedy is important or something) I have been studying at the Istituto Italiano to bring my Italian up to scratch.  After the first week where I kept speaking French it has been going quite well.  My class are a lovely bunch too which helps, particularly on trips to beautiful Ligurian coastlines.  We visited a gorgeous place called Le Cinque Terre which are five tiny villages inaccessible by roads.  You take a little train and see views like these.
I seem to have gone from one beautiful place to another, how tragic.

Apart from taking trips to picturesque villages I have mostly been doing what I do best - going to bars and drinking a bit too much wine.  I managed to excel myself in the self-injury stakes this week by trying to kick up my heels Irish style barefoot on cobbled streets and consequently rupturing a vein in my ankle.  It has gone an interesting colour to say the least.  I also had a visit from the nutty Raph who gave me a brilliant tour of Florentine gelaterie.  I'm hooked, they are just so nommy and my beach diet has gone completely out the window in a haze of pistacchio and frutti di bosco.  As usual we took some silly photos in the giardino delle rose which thankfully in May is blooming.

Soon I will be moving yet again, God help me.  But I'm moving to the seaside so I suppose I'll live.  Ciao for now!